We didn’t expect Seoul to rewire how we think about cities. We’d been through Tokyo, Bangkok, Hong Kong — all world-class urban experiences. But Seoul hit differently. It’s a city that takes its history seriously while simultaneously racing toward tomorrow, and somehow those two impulses don’t just coexist — they feed each other. The Joseon-era palaces sit in the shadow of glass towers. The tteokbokki carts have been on the same corners for generations. The subway is so clean and efficient it makes Tokyo’s look cluttered.
Our first morning in Myeongdong, Jenice grabbed hotteok from a street cart while I navigated us toward Gyeongbokgung on the metro. By noon we were watching the royal guard ceremony in the palace courtyard, both of us in rented hanbok, and our toddler was convinced this was the coolest place she’d ever been. She wasn’t wrong.
Seoul is the kind of city that grows on you. The neighborhoods don’t reveal themselves immediately — Ikseon-dong’s narrow alleys of converted hanok cafes, the coffee culture of Mangwon, the bookshops of Hyehwa. Every weekend we’d find something new within five subway stops of where we’d been the day before.
Getting Around Seoul
The Seoul Metropolitan Subway is 22 lines deep and connects virtually every point of interest. A T-money card (₩3,000 at any GS25 or CU convenience store) works on metro, buses, taxis, and even some convenience stores. Tap in, tap out — fares are typically ₩1,400-2,500 per ride.
Kakao T (Korea’s Uber equivalent) is excellent for taxis when you’re tired or carrying bags. Most drivers now have Google Translate ready on their phones — Seoul drivers are remarkably helpful with foreign tourists.
For day trips to the DMZ, Suwon, or Incheon, the AREX Airport Express and regional rail connect seamlessly with the city metro system.
Things to Do in Seoul
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Korea’s most grand royal palace, built in 1395 by the Joseon Dynasty. The Changing of the Guard ceremony happens at 10 AM and 2 PM (closed Tuesdays). Rent hanbok at the east gate for free entry — it’s genuinely worth doing, especially if you have kids. The National Folk Museum is inside the palace grounds and is excellent and free. Entrance: ₩3,000/adult, children free.
Bukchon Hanok Village
A living neighborhood of 900+ traditional Korean houses (hanok) dating back 600 years. The best viewpoint is on Gahoe-ro 11-gil — you’ll see the classic postcard shot of tile roofs with a modern Seoul skyline behind. Visit early morning (before 9 AM) when the lanes are quiet. Please keep noise down — real families live in these houses.
Han River Parks
Seoul’s Han River parks are where locals spend their weekends. Yeouido Hangang Park is the epicenter of spring cherry blossom season — the walkway along the river turns into a pink canopy in early April. Rent bicycles, buy convenience store kimbap and beer (this is very Korean), and watch the city from the water’s edge.
DMZ Day Trip
The Demilitarized Zone is 60km north of Seoul and visits are required to be done on organized tours (passport mandatory). The Joint Security Area (JSA) is the highlight — you stand in the blue conference huts directly on the border with North Korea, one foot in each country. It’s sobering, fascinating, and unlike anything else in the world. Book in advance, especially in peak season.
Insadong & Bukchon
Insadong is Seoul’s traditional arts district — galleries, tea houses, craft shops, and street performances. The narrow side alleys (Ssamziegil market) hide excellent coffee shops and handmade goods. Combine it with Bukchon for a full morning.
Hongdae Nightlife District
Hongdae is the university district adjacent to Hongik University — Korea’s most famous art school. The streets around Exit 9 of Hongdae Station are alive every night with street performers, indie music venues, clubs, and every kind of Korean drinking culture you’d want to explore. Best after 9 PM.
Gangnam District
Yes, that Gangnam. South of the Han River, this is Seoul’s affluent international face — luxury brands, K-beauty clinics, great restaurants. Starfield COEX Mall (underground) and the Bongeunsa Temple sitting incongruously between skyscrapers are worth the subway trip.
Where to Eat in Seoul
Tosokchon Samgyetang — The city’s most famous ginseng chicken soup restaurant, in a converted hanok near Gyeongbokgung. Lines form before 11 AM. ₩18,000/person. Whole chicken in broth with rice, jujubes, and garlic. It’s medicinal and delicious.
Gwangjang Market — Seoul’s oldest traditional market (open since 1905). The ground floor food stalls serve bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes), mayak kimbap (small sesame-seed rolls), and yukhoe (beef tartare). ₩3,000-8,000/item. Go with an empty stomach.
Mapo Galmaegi-sal Street — Pork skirt steak, rarely found outside Korea, grilled at your table with perilla leaf wraps, garlic, and ssamjang dipping sauce. This specific cut is addictively tender. The entire alley near Mapo Station is dedicated to it. ₩15,000-20,000/person + drinks.
Noryangjin Fish Market — Seoul’s enormous wholesale fish market where you can pick live seafood from tanks (sashimi-grade quality) and have it prepared on the upper floor. Best for dinner when the market is fully stocked. ₩20,000-60,000/person depending on what you choose.
Insadong Sanchon — Vegetarian Buddhist temple cuisine served course-style in a traditional setting. A genuinely revelatory meal that shows how much Korean food exists beyond the BBQ. ₩33,000/person for the full experience.
Myeongdong Street Stalls — For quick and cheap eats while exploring: tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes, ₩4,000), tornado potato (₩4,000), mandu dumplings (₩3,000), and hotteok sweet pancakes (₩2,000). These aren’t tourist traps — Koreans eat here too.
Where to Stay in Seoul
Lotte Hotel Seoul (Luxury) — ₩380,000+/night. Directly above Lotte Department Store in Myeongdong, a 5-min walk from Myeongdong Station. The Club Floor lounge views are extraordinary. The buffet breakfast is a Seoul institution.
Ibis Ambassador Myeongdong (Mid-range) — ₩110,000-140,000/night. Best mid-range value in central Seoul. Modern rooms, excellent location, rooftop views. Family rooms available. Within walking distance of Gyeongbokgung and Insadong.
Kimchee Guesthouse Hongdae (Budget) — ₩35,000-45,000/dorm, ₩80,000-100,000/private. The best budget option for solo travelers or young couples. Social atmosphere in one of Seoul’s most exciting neighborhoods. Book 2-3 months in advance for spring/fall.
Ryse Hotel Hongdae (Boutique) — ₩180,000-220,000/night. Korean design aesthetic meets international standards. The rooftop bar has a perfect view of Hongdae’s skyline. A favorite among design-minded travelers.
Seoul Backpackers (Budget) — ₩30,000-40,000/dorm. Near Dongdaemun, 24-hour subway access, great common areas. Excellent for travelers doing multiple day trips.
Scott’s Pro Tips for Seoul
1. Logistics & Getting There: Fly into Incheon International Airport (ICN). Take the AREX Express Train to Seoul Station in 43 minutes for ₩9,500, or use the All-Stop train (66 min, ₩4,850) which connects to more subway lines. Get your T-money card and USIM at the airport arrivals hall before leaving. Lotte, SK, and KT SIM cards all work well; 10GB/30 days runs about ₩15,000.
2. Best Time to Visit: April for cherry blossoms (peak usually Apr 3-10 but varies yearly — check the KARI forecast). October-November for fall foliage, especially in Bukhansan National Park. December-February is cold (-5 to 5°C) but holiday markets and ski day trips to Vivaldi Park or Elysian Gangchon are excellent.
3. Getting Around: Load ₩50,000 on a T-money card — it works on the metro (₩1,400-2,500/ride), all city buses, some taxis, and even many convenience stores. Kakao T app is your Uber alternative; rides within central Seoul rarely exceed ₩8,000. The subway runs until approximately 11:30 PM — 12 AM. After that, taxis are your only option.
4. Money & ATMs: Korean ATMs are widely available; look for Global ATM signs at GS25 and 7-Eleven convenience stores. These accept most foreign Visa/Mastercard. Many restaurants and smaller shops are still cash-only, so don’t rely entirely on cards. Daily ATM withdrawal limit is typically ₩700,000 per transaction. The current rate is approximately ₩1,350 per $1 USD.
5. Safety & Health: Seoul is exceptionally safe. The emergency number is 112 (police) and 119 (fire/ambulance). For medical care, Severance Hospital (Yonsei, Sinchon) and Seoul National University Hospital have English-speaking international clinics. Tap water is safe to drink — this surprised us. Street food is generally safe; only avoid anything left sitting in direct sun for hours.
6. Packing Essentials: Comfortable walking shoes — you will walk 15,000+ steps daily between metro stations and sightseeing. A compact umbrella for spring showers. Layers in spring and fall — Seoul’s temperature swings 10°C between morning and afternoon. A portable phone charger (subway station charging spots are rare). Download Naver Maps offline before you go — it works better than Google Maps in Korea.
7. Local Culture & Etiquette: Remove shoes when entering homes, traditional restaurants, and some Buddhist temples. Use both hands (or your right hand supported by the left) when receiving items, business cards, or pouring drinks — this is a respect gesture. Tipping is NOT practiced in Korea; attempting to tip in a restaurant will often be politely refused. “Gamsahamnida” (감사합니다) means thank you and is always appreciated. Avoid being loud in subway cars — Koreans keep transit spaces quiet.